Understanding the Differences (and Overlaps) Between Raw Denim and Selvedge Denim

Among the many terms associated with denim, "raw" and "selvedge" are often used interchangeably, but they represent distinct concepts. Here we look at the differences between raw denim and selvedge denim, explaining their characteristics, production processes, and how they contribute to the uniqueness and appeal of each type.

Raw Denim: The Purest Form of Denim

What is Raw Denim?

Raw denim, also known as dry or unwashed denim, refers to denim fabric that has not undergone any washing or distressing treatments after the dyeing process. This type of denim is typically stiff and dark when new and requires a break-in period to become softer and more comfortable.

Characteristics of Raw Denim

• Unwashed State: Raw denim retains its original state from the loom, preserving the deep indigo color and stiffness.
• Personalization: One of the most celebrated aspects of raw denim is its ability to develop unique fades and wear patterns over time, reflecting the lifestyle and habits of the wearer.
• Longevity: High-quality raw denim tends to be more durable and long-lasting compared to pre-washed denim, as it hasn’t been subjected to abrasive treatments.

The Process of Breaking In Raw Denim

Breaking in raw denim is a journey that requires patience and dedication. When you first wear raw denim, it can be stiff and uncomfortable. However, as you continue to wear it, the fabric begins to soften and mold to your body, creating a personalized fit. The indigo dye gradually fades in areas of high friction, such as the knees, thighs, and pockets, resulting in a distinctive, one-of-a-kind look.

Care Instructions for Raw Denim

Caring for raw denim involves a different approach compared to regular jeans. Here are some tips:

• Delay Washing: It is recommended to delay washing raw denim for as long as possible, typically six months, to allow unique wear patterns to develop.
• Cold Water Wash: When it’s time to wash, use cold water and mild detergent to preserve the indigo color.
• Air Dry: Always air dry raw denim to prevent shrinkage and maintain the integrity of the fabric.

Selvedge Denim: The Premium Edge

What is Selvedge Denim?

Selvedge (or selvage) denim refers to the self-finished edges of the denim fabric, produced on traditional shuttle looms. The term "selvedge" comes from "self-edge," indicating that the edges of the fabric are finished in such a way that they will not unravel.

Characteristics of Selvedge Denim

• Self-Finished Edges: The defining feature of selvedge denim is the clean, tightly woven edges that prevent fraying. These edges are often characterized by a colored thread running along the edge, visible when the cuffs are rolled up.
• Shuttle Loom Production: Selvedge denim is made on shuttle looms, which produce narrower fabric widths and a denser weave compared to modern projectile looms.
• Quality and Durability: Due to the traditional manufacturing process, selvedge denim is often considered superior in quality and durability.

The Appeal of Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim is highly sought after for several reasons:

• Craftsmanship: The use of vintage shuttle looms and traditional techniques imparts a sense of craftsmanship and heritage.
• Aesthetic: The visible selvedge edge when jeans are cuffed is a mark of quality and attention to detail, often appreciated by denim enthusiasts.
• Limited Production: The slower production process of selvedge denim means it is produced in smaller quantities, adding to its exclusivity.

Identifying Selvedge Denim

To identify selvedge denim, look for the following features:

• Selvedge ID: This is the colored line running along the edge of the denim fabric, which can be seen when the jeans are cuffed.
• Narrow Fabric Width: Selvedge denim is typically narrower than non-selvedge denim due to the limitations of shuttle looms.

Raw vs. Selvedge Denim: Key Differences and Overlaps

Production Process

• Raw Denim: Refers to the state of the denim being unwashed and untreated post-dyeing. It can be produced on both shuttle looms and modern looms.
• Selvedge Denim: Refers to the method of weaving on shuttle looms, producing self-finished edges. It can be raw (unwashed) or pre-washed.

Durability and Quality

Both raw and selvedge denim are associated with high quality and durability, but for different reasons:

• Raw Denim: Its strength lies in the lack of post-production treatments, preserving the fabric's original integrity.
• Selvedge Denim: Its quality comes from the dense weave and meticulous production process on shuttle looms.

Aesthetic and Wear

• Raw Denim: Known for its ability to develop personalized fades and wear patterns, providing a unique, individual look.
• Selvedge Denim: Recognized for the distinctive selvedge edge, which is both a visual and a quality indicator.

Price Point

Both raw and selvedge denim tend to be more expensive than mass-produced, pre-washed denim due to the specialized production processes and materials used. However, selvedge denim often carries a higher price tag because of the traditional shuttle loom production.

Conclusion: Choosing Between Raw and Selvedge Denim

When deciding between raw and selvedge denim, it's essential to consider what aspects of denim are most important to you:

• For Personalization: If you value the idea of creating a unique, personalized pair of jeans that tell your story, raw denim is the way to go. The break-in process and development of custom fades can be a rewarding experience.
• For Craftsmanship and Heritage: If you appreciate traditional craftsmanship and the heritage of denim production, selvedge denim offers a tangible connection to the history of denim. The self-finished edges and quality construction are a testament to this legacy.
• For All of the Above: Opt for raw selvedge denim.

Ultimately, many denim enthusiasts find joy in owning both types, appreciating the unique qualities and stories that each pair of jeans brings to their wardrobe. Whether you choose raw denim, selvedge denim, or both, you're investing in a piece of clothing that goes beyond fashion, embodying quality, tradition, and personal expression.